Our friend, Bernie Siebert from Los Vegas, visits his wife's family in the
small town of Palma Soriono, near Santiago de Cuba. Even though the family visited is not
Jewish, we have chosen to give you the opportunity to read his diary for three reasons.
First, the majority of daily life and the attitudes of all Cubans is similar whether or
not they are Jewish. Second, he writes from a Jewish perspective. Third, well it is just
plain fun to read.
Travels with Bernie and Maria, Cuba 2001 by Bernie Siebert
My wonderful and lovely wife, Maria, was born in Oriente Province, Cuba. I won't say
how many years ago but we are classified as "senior citizens." Sheleft Cuba over
forty years ago. She left behind a large family, mostly brothers. Six years ago, I
convinced her that she should visit her family in Cuba to reconnect with loved ones. She
consented but insisted that Iaccompany her. Our decision to visit Cuba was a good one.
With the exception of last year when she traveled alone, we have made it an annual
pilgrimage of three week duration, as allowed by Cuban law.
Saturday, April 21st.
Friends drove us to the airport. Two years ago in Cuba, I forgot our airline tickets.
This year I left my passport in an envelope on a dresser at home. Quick action on the part
of daughter Marci and friend Tullio, got the passport into my hands, close to departure
time. I wasn't the only one who forgot something. Maria left our boom-box in the terminal
building but we did get it back. The weight allowance for the flight was 50 lb. per
person. We had 100 lb. per person. The excess weight cost us $2. /pound. $200. is a cheap
price to pay when you consider that shipping things to Cuba costs $14. a pound. $200
versus $1,400. Is, indeed, a savings. What do we take that weighs so much? Clothing,
shoes, vitamins, spark plugs (?), flashlights, batteries, various sundries, video tapes
and movies, and of course, our own clothing and toilet articles. While at home in Las
Vegas, I asked myself, "What's something special that I can get for the
teenagers?" At Wal-Mart, I noticed a vast selection of posters. Yes! For the young
ladies a selection of 'N Sync, Back Street Boys and Britney Spears posters went into a
mailing tube for safe travel. For the boys, I purchased youth size baseball caps, another
great idea.
We arrived at Jose Marti Airport, Havana, 11:30pm local time. Why is going through
Customs and Immigration always such a hassle? Exiting the terminal, we found most of our
Havana "family." Pupy (Mario Vicor Pérez Medina), his "esposa" Nancy
(Nancita) and their beautiful daughter Yune (Yuneisy). Yune's boyfriend Rick (Ricardo) and
Maria Elena, who came all the way from Palma Soriano to be with us. A Panataxi (state-
owned tourist taxi) was waiting too. Our plans had been changed for us. It had been
decided that we (Pupy, Nancita, Maria Elena, Maria and myself) would leave almost
immediately for the other end of the island and spend a few days in Havana on the return
trip. At 2:30am, after two short stops to visit family, we hopped into the ten passenger
van. There were two drivers as the distance between Havana and Palma Soriano is 932
kilometers (560 miles). Palma Soriano is a small town "pueblo" of approximately
14,000 people. It's a 45 minute drive to the "big" city of Santiago de Cuba. The
majority of Oriente Province is rural farmland.Sunday, April 22nd. We arrived in Palma
Soriano at 1:15pm. Tired from the trip but elated to be at (brother) Rogelio's house.
Immediately, family and neighbors showed up. As in past years, we stayed up until after
midnight; talking, drinking and dancing. Everyone wanted to see the photos we had of our
family and friends in Las Vegas. They all know the names of our children and
grandchildren. As it was after midnight and officially April 23rd, they decided to
celebrate my birthday with singing and kisses.
Monday, April 23rd.
What a breakfast! Natural eggs over easy, French fries (thinner than US style),
tomatoes and onions, and the freshest orange juice you ever tasted. Maria went to the town
of Chile to visit her only living aunt. That evening, the youngsters put up party
decorations; crepe paper and balloons. Just as during our last trip, we had a boom-box
"grabadora" with us. Music plays an important part in the life of the Cuban
people. They love everything from Beny Moré to Mark Anthony. I tell friends and family,
that if they want to get a small glimpse into Cuban life, they should rent or buy the
documentary video "The Buena Vista Social Club." The house filled up quickly
that evening. Lots of rum and "Aguardente" was consumed but no one was drunk.
There was a birthday cake with my name on it. There were also two pans of "pastel de
pollo." Pastry shell with chicken inside, and written on one was "Bernie and
Maria Club." It seems that friends and family had formed a fan club to honor us. They
had pooled their meager coins to pay for the decorations and food. When you consider that
the average monthly wage is ten dollars, you realize what they sacrificed in order to
throw a party "fiesta." In the wee hours of the morning, things quieted down and
we sat around listening to some CDs; the comedy/jokes of Alvarez Guedes.
Tuesday, April 24th.
Maria went shopping first thing and I slept until 11:30am. Two years ago, Rogellio had
air conditioning installed in the master bedroom. It makes me more comfortable during the
day but makes Maria shiver. There didn't seem to be as many mosquitoes as in past years
but we still slept with netting over the bed. The typical Cuban home is an elongated
rectangle. The front door opens to a long area that serves as livingroom/family room, and
extends back to a kitchen area with table and chairs. Off to one side, usually the right,
are a series of bedrooms, separated by curtains. The ceilings are high and some homes have
ceiling fans. Otherwise there are one or two portable fans around the house. It can get
"cold" in Cuba during the winter months. During the summer months, between the
heat and high humidity, if your not living next to a beach, you're going to suffer. Over
the years, progress has come to Cuba. One major aspect is electricity. Everyone has
electric power now. Even in rural areas, you'll see thatched huts/homes, with an
electrical line running to it. Usually you will see a TV antenna too. Power outages were
very common in past years. We usually had flashlights or lanterns. One early evening there
was an extended power outage due to an accident. I just sat outside reading a Martin Cruz
mystery novel, "Havana Bay;" how very appropriate.
Wednesday, April 25th.
Up at 8:30am because the procession of brothers and others, started early. Cuban coffee
is offered to all guests. In small demitasse cups, this potent liquid is pure caffeine.
Milk is not normally available but some was found for the babies; Pupy and I like our
coffee and milk "café con eche." The afternoon was devoted to movies. On our
first trip to Cuba, finding a VCR was very difficult. Nowadays, someone in the family has
one and it's passed house-to-house when needed. Besides the movies, we also had family
videos taken in Las Vegas, the Latin Music Awards, and the Oscar presentations. In the
evening many of brother Rafael's family from Chile (32 miles away) visited us.
Thursday, April 26th.
Maria went to Santiago de Cuba for a physical exam. I went on a tour of Palma Soriano
with two teen guides. The family refuses to let me walk around town without a
"guard." In the afternoon, I visited Raul Benitez, another brother, who lives in
Guaninao, Contramaestre, and we picked up three sacks of corn. Where is the largest
minefield in the world? The American naval base at Guantánamo, thanks to the U.S. Marines
and especially the Russians who designed the Cuban side of the minefield and then took the
plans home. Relationships within families can be a little hard to explain. When a Cuban
says, "This is my brother," the man could be a brother, half-brother, or someone
who grew up within the same household. Maria says she has five brothers but I've been
introduced to eight men who are "brothers." A very close friend of ours is
Concha Aries who lives across the street from Rogellio. Her two daughters and one niece
(Mary Elena, Maricel and Morima) are like daughters to us. Therefore the husbands(Abel,
Guillermo [Chino] and Idalberto) are like son-in-laws. The extended family becomes
immediate family. There is also the matter of marriage. When someone talks about their
husband or wife (esposo o esposa), they may or may not be legally married (civil or
religious ceremony) but as far as Cuban society goes (and most other Latin American
countries), they are indeed husband and wife. In the US and other countries the term used
is "common law marriage."
Friday, April 27th.
Maria and I are off to Chile to deliver some things. At Rogellio's house, we had run
out of water. There is no "running water" froma city system. Large tanks are
located on the roofs and usually filled every ten days. For two or three people, that
would be sufficient but with the "mob" usually present, an additional water tank
truck delivery was needed. We (in the USA) take too many things for granted. That evening,
Alberto (El Medico), Pupy, Morima (a niece from Chile) and I, attended Shabat (Sabbath)
services at Templo Judio de Santiago de Cuba. Members of the congregation remembered that
we had attended services there, two years ago. There was a community meal afterwards.Just
outside the city limits of Santiago de Cuba, is a police checkpoint. Cars are picked at
random and papers are checked. I am classified as a "tourist" and am NOT allowed
to ride in private cars. I am supposed to take a taxi everywhere. In the past, we were
stopped by the police, but Alberto as a well known doctor, was able to talk his way out of
getting a ticket. The fine for violating that law can be between 500 and 1,500 pesos ($25.
to $75.). That's a horrendous amount considering the average monthly wage.
Saturday, April 28th.
We were up at 6am because we were going to the beach. In past years, we would pile onto
a truck (metal seats with a canvas cover) and all forty or so people would go with us. If
we didn't take someone who was "family" it could be seen as an insult. We
"tried" to plan for eight people but in the end we had to rent a school bus for
the 30+ men, women and children, who went. This bus was so old, (How old was it?) it may
have transferred Teddy Roosevelt and his troops to San Juan Hill.The fumes from the diesel
engine would have killed most people. A bus "autobus" in Cuba is called
"guagua" (pronounced wah-wah). Northwest along the coast from Santiago de Cuba
are some truly lovely beaches. They are not yet "tourist" beaches and have a
natural charm and beauty. The one we "camped out" at was "El Frances"
(The French). Unlike most US beaches, the water was not frigid but just right. I was among
the children who immediately went into the water. It was a fun day for all. Maria and I
said, "Don't bring too much food." There was enough food stuff for an army.First
there were tomato sandwiches, later corn tamales, followed by "pastel" (pastry).
Many bottles of water and a few bottles of rum. Most everyone got roasted and toasted. A
few of the children were unfortunate and met some jellyfish; a minor problem.
Sunday, April 29th.
Maria and a few of the ladies paid a visit to the beautiful cathedral at El Cobre.
Having been there twice before, I stayed home. Flashback to two years ago... Walked seven
children to the ice cream store, and just as before, they were out of ice cream. In
Havana, almost every block has a place to buy "helado." In Palma Soriano, the
only ice cream parlor offers 3 flavors of a soft ice cream (a different flavor on
different days), if there is any at all. As a consolation prize, purchased sodas, cookies
and chewing gum for the kids.
Monday, April 30th.
Up again at 6am but this time we went to the home of brother Bolivar (Bolee) and his
numerous sons. Up in the Sierra Maestra Mountains, in the province of Granma, near Buey
Arriba, is the small village of San Pablo de Yao. Seven people in a car, no truck or bus
this time. Before eating, we visited the small but beautiful Yao River. The water from the
mountains was not cold. After the normal amount of swimming, it was time for everyone to
shampoo their hair. Ran into a rain storm on the way back. Doctor Alberto Ferrer and wife
Glaydita (Gladys), have two daughters. The youngest one is Karina, who I call
"querida" (dear). The older sister is Yudith (Judeth) and she is married to
Angel, a computer major (communications) at a university in Santiago de Cuba. He plays an
important part in our lives. He is our e-mail contact! Back to the conversation. Angel,
with fellow student Ronald, and a young lady friend, visited me and the entire
conversation was in English. We talked about computers, music, mutual e-mail friends, and
the world in general.
Tuesday, May 1st.
In Cuba, May Day is a national holiday. Lunch at Martha's home . She is Ana Odis's
sister. A large and lovely home. The majority of the day was spent at Rogellio's home.
People in and out, just visiting; talking and listening to music. It was Alberto's
birthday but there was no party.
Wednesday, May 2nd.
Maria off to Bayamo. On the way back from Yao 2 days previously, we had stopped in the
city of Bayamo. A new mayor had turned a small portion of the downtown area into a
"new shopping zone." Some streets were blocked off to cars and the area had been
"revitalized.". One store in particular, had "pulovers" (T-shirts) and
towels for three dollars each. In Cuban cities and towns, you will usually find at least
one"Cupet." This is the equivalent to the American 7-11, only smaller. In one
such store, in Bayamo, I found a treasure; a jar of "mermelada de fresa"
(strawberry jam). Maria and some of the "girls" had to return to Bayamo for more
bargains. In the afternoon, we piled into a car (7 adults and 1 small boy) and off we went
to Chile. Brother Raphael has many nephews and nieces also. Like Yao, the majority of
cooking was done on open fires in the back yard. They had even purchased a can of soda for
me; "cachito," similar to Sprite, but it's really my favorite drink. As we were
leaving Chile, Maria pointed to a fairly large house and said, "That's our
house!" It seems that the family needed a larger house and "we" financed
the deal. I don't think we ever intend to live there. If the house were in Palma Soriano,
I might consider living there. In the evening, three doctors visited Maria. She had been
running a fever, the past few days.
Thursday, May 3rd.
Maria returned to Santiago de Cuba for medical tests and x-rays. Four different doctors
and "the" top specialist in his field, agreed that Maria has severe allergy
problems, not sinusitis as the US doctors said. We WILL have to make some changes. For
starters, "Tigger" our cat, will need a new home. In addition, we need to have
the house checked for dust mites, etc.. During our trips to Cuba, a simple thing like
plastic or wire clothing hangars were impossible to find. Finally, Felipa (associated with
Concha's family) who knew we were looking for "perchas," found some. There were
made of bent aluminum tubing, about the same diameter as the plastic ones found in the US.
Cost, 8 pesos (40˘) for twelve. At 5pm, we went back to Santiago de Cuba for dental
appointments. My periodentist in Las Vegas said that I had a tooth that needed to be
extracted; cost, $200. While the dentist was removing my tooth (for a great deal less),
Maria had her teeth cleaned by a dental hygienist. I had been concerned that the equipment
and procedures would be "antiquated" but the personnel and equipment were almost
on a par to that in the states.
Friday, May 4th.
Maria returned to a local doctor's office. She was still running a fever. I walked with
nephew, Karel, to his mother's house. We just sat around talking. That afternoon and part
of the evening, I kept busy recording cassettes from the CDs I had. Very few people have
CD players but EVERYONE has a cassette player. DVD is totally unknown in Palma Soriano.
Might be different in Havana.
Saturday, May 5th.
Our good neighbor and friend, Juan and his wife Irené, Had to drive a nephew and his
small daughter and son, to visit family in Holguin. Juan asked Rogellio and I if we wanted
to go along for the ride. After dropping the family members off, we continued on to he
beach at Guardalavaca. This beach is tourist oriented; beach chairs/lounges, kayaks, even
water skiing. Lots of foreigners who had too much sun and paid for it with rosy red
bodies. Lunch at a restaurant right on the beach consisted of shrimp pizzas. I was
surprised when the waitress also brought out fried chicken, french fries and rice.
Returning through Holguin, we stopped and visited another nephew. Then picked up the
original nephew and children, for the trip back to Palma Soriano.
Sunday, May 6th.
Cubalse is the name of the largest local store. They carry clothing, shoes, small
appliances, electronics (radios, TVs, etc.) and grocery items. All available for
"dollars only." The newest addition to their stock was "ice cream." So
seven children and two adults walked there. Chocolate ice cream for everyone, even those
back at the house. 75˘ for a cup of ice cream is a once-a-year treat for children, and
for most adults, too. When a young girl turns fifteen, it is a special time in her life.
It is appropriate to have professional photos taken. A gown is often rented or made. On
two occasions I have served as the "professional photographer." Hiring a
professional photographer is a great expense, while having "Tio Bernie" shoot up
two rolls of film is a much better idea. The living room, dining room and exteriors of
Martha's house provided excellent backgrounds for the photos. Just before leaving Cuba, I
discovered that Maria also paid for the developing of the film. Before we left Las Vegas,
I visited the Nevada Palace Casino. The casino cashier has $1., $2. and $5. bills, in
sequence, and glued along the op so the bills can be peeled off, just like checks in a
checkbook. In fact, the bills are in a holder that looks like a checkbook. The $1. bills
are generally used for tips. The $2. bills, not found in Cuba, are usually given to family
members and inscribed with our names, the date and a short message.
Monday, May 7th.
More visitors, as usual. Used the boom-box to record more cassettes. In the afternoon,
watched "Mujer Bonita" (Pretty Woman) with Richard Gere, dubbed in Spanish. It
was still a good movie. At 8pm, everyone headed for a television set. It was the semi
final baseball game for the national championship; Santiago de Cuba versus Camagey.
Baseball is a national obsession in Cuba. Many of the Santiago de Cuba players are from
Palma Soriano. The attitude of the players is one of friendly competition. When a batter
gets a single hit, he goes to first base and jokes with the first baseman. I may not be
able to return to Cuba for saying this, but I think overall, the US players are better
than the Cuban players.
Tuesday, May 8th.
Lunch at Martha's house was very unusual. Maria had purchased most of the ingredients;
rice from Spain, beer, etc.. Martha and family made "arroz con pollo, a la
cherra," using Maria's recipe. The Spanish style chicken and rice came out
"fantástico;" just as if Maria had made it herself. People in and out of
Rogellio's house, all day and night, many with letters to be mailed to relatives in the
US. Regular postal mail can take three weeks to three months, either way. Taking letters
with us to Las Vegas, insures quick delivery.
Wednesday, May 9th.
Packing clothes and small presents that we received kept us busy. Financial
arrangements were made; who was to receive funds during the coming year. The majority of
clothes were given to family or to be kept at Rogellio's house so we would have less to
bring on our next trip.
Thursday, May 10th.
Up at 5am for last minute packing. Had to make sure that we didn't leave anything
behind; like tickets or a passport. At 6:30am, a crowd of approximately 25 people,
gathered to wish us a safe trip. It was an emotional time. There was not as much crying as
in past years. We drove to the airport at Santiago de Cuba, having decided that a 12 hour
Panataxi or tourist bus trip would have been too hard on Maria. Maria Elena had arranged
for us to fly on a better and newer airplane, and she was accompanying us to Havana. The
44 plane was comfortable. I sat next to a gentleman , Mark Milton, from Great Britain, who
was vacationing with friends. When we arrived, we discovered that Pupy had gone to the
wrong airport, so we took a taxi to his home. After lunch we changed clothes. We wanted to
look nice for Yuni's baptism ceremony. Maria Elena, Nancita, Yuni, Rick, Maria, myself,
with Pupy driving a borrowed car, drove to the "Orthodox Church of Cuba." Seven
people in a small Russian car! The church was fairly small. Four people to be baptized,
with their families, filled the room. Part of the baptism service, is the naming of God
Parents. Maria and I became "Madrina y Padrino" to Yuni.
Friday, May 11th.
Spent the day with Belkis (Bertha Arias) and other family members in Havana. Went
shopping for gifts for family back home but couldn't find anything locally. We stayed up
until midnight, talking to Pupy and his family (mother-Noemi, brother-Frank, and
sister-in-law - Marlen).
Saturday, May 12th.
This is our last day in Cuba. After breakfast, Pupy and I went to the tourist area in
Old Havana and found T-shirts and small items, to be taken back home. We were sad to be
leaving Cuba, yet happy to be returning to our family and friends at home. uneventful.
Comments: It is so difficult to describe
the people and culture of Cuba.In essence, "You have to be there to appreciate
it." There is a big difference between the big cities of Santiago de Cuba and Havana,
and the rural life style in Palma Soriano. In the agricultural areas, the people try to
live a simple life and provide for their families as best they can. The big cities have an
air of "rapid desperation." What little I saw of "El Grande" (Havana),
I was not pleased with. Yes, there are interesting tourist sites but at the same time,
there's the "hustle" of someone trying to sell you cigars. In the big cities,
there's the vast array of spandex sported by many women. Many men from Canada and Europe,
flock to Cuba to take advantage of the country's financial distress and at bargain rates.
The same situation can be found in the Philippines, Viet Nam, Thailand, etc.. I love Cuba;
the good and the bad. I have written to the president and my US senators and congressmen,
pleading with them to help end the embargo. We are not at war with Cuba, so why must we
punish them, even after forty years? My opinions and thoughts are MINE and do not reflect
everyone's view of Cuba. To the family and friends in Cuba, "We love you all."
If I didn't mention your name, please forgive me. If you enjoyed reading my
"novel" please let me know. If you didn't...
